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I started to realize just how beautiful and variable beans could be and how delicious they can be.Īnytime you say that you want to tell people how to cook a pot of beans, one of the first things that they always say is, "Well, where's your smoky piece of pork?" There's this long-standing tradition of there being some sort of smoked meat in any pot of beans, and there's certainly nothing wrong with that. When I discovered beans from Rancho Gordo, it was like that moment in The Wizard of Oz when it goes from black-and-white to color. Much later, of course, when I started to turn toward a plant-based diet-which was about nine or 10 years ago-beans became more and more important to me. I thought, "OK, I really want to do this now, and bring together my own culinary love of beans with a political, environmental message."
In 2016, the United Nations declared the International Year of Pulses, and that was this big effort to make the point that that beans are actually an important crop for feeding the world: that they return nitrogen to the soil and that as a shelf-stable, cheap source of protein, they could actually be key to feeding a growing planet in an era of global climate change. I was thinking of my next book and about things that I'm interested in, so I was thinking about beans. The idea for Cool Beans came probably five years ago. Honestly, when I first started working on the book, I thought, "How am I going to come up with 125 recipes using beans?" By the end, I thought, "How am I gonna stop?"
While he was in New York to promote Cool Beans before the city went on lockdown, Yonan spoke with VICE about why everyone's losing it over beans and why these humble legumes are worth an entire cookbook. In any case, Yonan's happy that everyone's giving beans the attention they deserve. Beans have become the foundation of an entire category of absurdist memes for the Very Online meanwhile, the food scene is so into beans right now that membership to California bean supplier Rancho Gordo's "Bean Club" feels like the cool kids table of the food world. But Yonan isn't the only one with beans on the brain.